Spring Button-Downs With An Affliction

There aren't many brands willing to give women's springtime apparel some ruggedness, which is why there is one series of button-downs that stand out this season. For the past several seasons, Affliction Clothing, once better known for women's baby tees and short dresses, has come around with something tougher.

The button-downs they make draw inspiration from country as much as rock and roll. Much like their men's line, the attention is often in the details, especially if you are willing to wade past the more predictable trademark emblazoned designs. These shirts are made to be worn in rougher settings, especially those that involve motorcycles.

Three rugged button-downs with an affliction. 

Some of of the shirts are largely straightforward like the Rock Out LS (above). Rather than carry any brands, the button-down adds its first layer of toughness with some stitched square panels down the front. After that, metallic stud embellishments adorn both the pocket and sleeves.

Down the back, the shirt starts with another series of studs that taper away as they roll down the back.  The black, with the slightest sheen, comes across almost charcoal. Caring for it is easy. Machine wash cold.

Some of the patterns aren't nearly as subtle and they don't have to be. The Riding Wheels Woven is based on a classic Western button-down that gets completely renovated as West Coast motorcycle wear. They accomplish it with contrasting shoulder yokes and a few well-placed stud embellishments.

Aside from contrast stitching and contrast lining, most of the action happens on the back. Emblazoned with something reminiscent of the Southern cross with well-placed studs, the shirt manages to reflect a harder edge despite being a bit busy.

The shirt, like most of those made by Affliction, is 98 percent cotton and 2 percent Spandex. The addition of Spandex gives the material its characteristic give. Just don't size down too much as all button-downs are meant to fit without being too snug against the buttons.

Some shirts, like the Westwood LS Woven, don't have any Spandex added. In fact, the 100 percent cotton shirt is slightly different than the rest because it adds a feminine touch with floral lace panels and shoulder yokes. It's a surprisingly smart combination.

The back of the shirt is decorated with one of the American Customs Motor Club designs. The roaring puma feels almost too pronounced, making me wish we could have seen one without even if it works nonetheless. The bottom line is most shirts aren't made with enough toughness but these three and about a dozen more are.

Tom Atencio is at the heart of design for men and women.

Affliction Clothing is fast approaching its tenth year as the manufacturer that made a business out of clothing with tribal tattoos, skeletal jewelry, and a toughness borrowed from mixed martial arts, metal, motorcycles. and muscle cars. Think about the brand as more under the radar than Ed Hardy but more accessible than Von Dutch.

The company itself was started by Tom Atencio, Todd Beard and Eric Foss. The three stepped outside of design industry standards and found an audience within the mixed martial arts crowd. The company is still evolving, especially as it has expanded its line for women.

Button-Downs For Women By Affliction Snap 7.4 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale. 

When most people think about Affliction, they think about the marketing with fast cars, sultry women, and super-charged testosterone. But like most things, that is only part of the story. There are an increasing number of women who are just as tough as the men and Affliction is finding them.

Affliction continues to expand its global presence, opening stores in Moscow, Dubai, Tokyo, and Sao Paulo. You can also find them online, placing any orders from the company direct. To browse the newest additions to their spring line, shop Affliction Clothing.

Eleven Paris Adds Up Apparel Attitude

While some brands aim to add attitude to their lines with advertising, some brands just have attitude. Eleven Paris is like that. The 10-something brand was built by two friends as a Parisian prêt-à-porter.

It's well known for its minimalist spirit, indie references, sporty allure, and seasonal inspirations. Add attitude to the list because even some of the simplest graphic Ts range from playful to aggressive. One of their newest additions, in fact, saves the handlebar mustache from becoming cliched.

To do it, Eleven Paris puts the iconic mustaches on several pop culture heroes with nothing more than a finger. The design gives a contemporary lift to a concept that often feels  too pat for its own good. Elvis, Jepy, Moriag, and Micky are just a few well-known faces to receive the mustache treatment.

The classically creative nonchalance marks the heart of Eleven Paris.

Naturally, all Eleven Paris Ts for women are fitted. They are made from 100 percent cotton. The design underscores the nonchalant vibe, feeling both carefree and purposeful at the same time.


Depending on the portrait to sport a mustache gives the shirt an entirely different generational context. Whomever is decorated with the legendary mustache borrowed from painter Dali adds an entirely different context. The entire idea, as introduced so long ago, is to bridge the world of fashion with pop culture art, music, film, and society in an immediate, playful and expressive way.

The method isn't limited to mustaches. Eleven Paris has succeeded in making playful statements using any number of images that begin to feel iconic. There are fox heads that flip the bird and vintage daredevils that two friends have labeled savages.

For something with more sophistication, try on some tops.

Along with its compelling T-shirts, Eleven Paris is known to feature prints with minimal repeating patterns. The Laldo Print is only one example; it's made with a cotton-linen composite. The top features a reinforced stitch and deep scoop neckline. Although So Jeans only carries the tank, the designers also extended the pattern to a half-sleeve blouse.

Conversely, when Eleven Paris does repeat, they do it intentionally and with style. These patterns are often busy — with one or to well-designed icons purposely drawn together for a simplistic bold statement. Some of favorites include a repeating rose that becomes stripes at a distance, a white lours print on black, and blue lours print on red.

Somewhere in between is a Mickey Mouse collage that can be easily mistaken for a random pattern at a distance. And if Mickey Mouse is part of your bag, make sure to search for the Mickey denim shorts. His little face is faded, but his head is positioned to look up at the wearer when she sits down.

A couple more graphs about the Eleven Paris founders.

Eleven Paris was a collaborative labor of love started by Oriel Bensimon and Dan Cohen in 2003. Both of them graduated from Esmod, which was the first fashion school ever established in France in 1841. What some say makes the school unique is its regard for fashion design and tailoring.

Even when the brand was launching itself into the graphic shirt arena (known for its high risk and dazzling returns) the secret to success was attempting to design a line that is cool and trendy while remaining accessible to everyone.

Eleven Paris Brings In Spring At 7.9 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale. 

The real beauty of Eleven Paris apparel is its ability to be be striking and subtle at the same time. All too often, American designers try too hard to find the edge and somehow lose it in the process. Eleven Paris keeps everything caustic, causal, and flattering. It's harder to find Stateside, but is ready for import.

You can find some Eleven Paris apparel on sale at United Kingdom-based retailer So Jeans. You can also find many designs direct. For contrast and comparison, visit Bloomingdales in the United States. While you won't find graphic Ts nearly as striking, there are a few designers who are on par with printed tops.

Spring Is In The Air Aussie Style

With snow still on the ground in some parts of the States, some people might think it is too soon to get on about spring. It really isn't. Spring is only a few weeks away and some parts of the country have already warmed up.

In fact, one collection from the design-savvy label Shabby Apple makes everything feel even warmer. With Australia serving as its inspiration, Shabby Apple created what it calls an Aussie Afternoon Collection, which is a little bit vintage, a little bit rustic, and always open for layers.

The Aussie Collection is all about blending rugged with sophistication.

Most of the collection accentuates the simple, with four strikingly simple one-piece dresses that capture a range of regions. The Morning Dew Dress to the right makes for a good example. It's a radiant eyelet lace dress that gives off a touch of playfulness without ever looking fragile.

Made of high quality cotton and fully lined, it is inspired by a retro style that once graced the Australian outback. The best aspect of the design is that it lands somewhere between casual and dressed, making it easy to wear in the afternoon and into the early evening with the right top.

For something more pragmatic and a little less elegant, the Russel Wrap Dress retains the charm of the outback but with a cut that gives it a casual, classic look. The eyelets along with the bow in the back are important to keep the entire look from becoming too schoolmarmish.

Too add more snap for urban outings, Shabby Apple selected a comfortable stretch taffeta blend and pulled together a graphically bold ensemble with hints of the sixties. The same holds true for the Sydney or Bust Dress, a refreshingly vintage dress that will take someone from spring into summer. The flared trumpet skirt is especially striking for the times.


Along with these dresses that are Southern California sharp as much as they are Aussie inspired, Shabby Apple also added a few tops that can easily be worn with a skirt or as something to dress down the entire look with something rugged.

The denim shirt is meant to lend even more casual charm with sleeves that roll up effortlessly to the elbow. There is also room to leave a couple of front buttons unsnapped, allowing the shirt to to be tied up in the front.

Aside from the denim, Shabby Apple suggests a henley-style shirt with scoop neck. It also features darling buttons down three-quarters of the front and camp-style pockets. It can be worn tucked like a shirt or out and cinched at the waist like a tunic.

A couple more graphs about Shabby Apple.

The Shabby Apple story has been told here a few times before. But what I haven't mentioned is its three pillars of design — that everything is vintage inspired, workplace empowered, and socially conscious. And that's pretty cool.

Shabby Apple picked these three pillars because its founder believed that the fashion industry seems to have forgotten that fashion can make women look both beautiful and powerful. They ought to know. The company is more than 90 percent woman owned and only partners with organizations that are willing to give women micro loans around the world and safe working environments.

 The Aussie Afternoon Collection Runs 7.2 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale.

This classic collection came together while adhering to the belief that dresses need to stand on their own without any assistance from cardigans or slips. There is some truth to that if you want to keep the look simple, straightforward and powerful. Less is often more in warmer climates.

You can find the complete Aussie Afternoon Outback at Shabby Apple direct. Materials and prices vary, with this collection being among the most modestly priced. The collection ranges from $48 tops to $82 dresses.

Sanuk Slips On A Spring Yoga Sandal

Most people already know the story behind Sanuk, but it still brings a smile to my face. Sanuk is the sandal and shoe company that was started in a backyard shed by Jeff Kelley, an old surf industry aficionado.

As the story goes, he came up with this unusual idea to make sandals out of indoor-outdoor carpeting as opposed to standard material. That's all it took-- one great idea that caught on in Cardiff By The Sea before migrating south to San Diego and north to Los Angeles.

It didn't take long for his concept to expand either. Kelley was all about what feels great on feet. Even his soft mesh sandals were inspired by an accidental encounter with a floor mat in a foreign taxi. His feet brushed up against it once and he immediately had the idea to incorporate it into his next sandal.

Sandals made from yoga mats add crazy comfort. 

But my favorite sandals aren't made from comfortable mesh. They are made even softer because the footbed is crafted from a real yoga mat. The idea was so solid that Sanuk won its second Footwear Product of the Year for it in 2010. The honor was well deserved.

When you combine the yoga mat top sole with Sanuk's subbed sponge outer sole, your feet feel better on the beach or on the boardwalk. The straps holding them on are comfortable too. Sanuk straps are textured and woven and wide and flexible enough to hold firm without pinching.

While some straps are made with leather, vegans will be happy to learn many Sanuk sandals are not. In fact, one of my favorite women's sandals with a yoga mat top sole is strapped on with a two-way stretch knit sling.

Sanuk doesn't make the sling for men, but it might be an interesting idea if it did. However, there are other options. Some feature jersey liners on the inside of the strap. Others include wearable textiles that hold to your foot without rubbing against it.

Other offerings from a company looking to redefine footwear. 

As Sanuk continued to grow, Kelley never confined it to sandals. His next innovation was marrying his sandal bottoms to a shoe upper, creating what he calls a Sidewalk Surfer.

The idea came to him while walking up and down stairs to the beach, which is when ordinary shoes seem to be the least effective. By offering up a sandal bottom, people plant their entire foot on a step. It's not just simple, but a real solution for anyone familiar with beachfronts around La Jolla.

Later, the Sidewalk Surfer was redesigned again to accommodate cooler climates. The very first all-weather shoe, called the Skyline, included Sanuk's patented sandal construction but this time with a waxed canvas hi-top. There is even an interior stash pocket in the shoe for whatever.

Technically, the Sidewalk Surfer is still considered a sandal, slip off or not. They have a sandal bottom, which makes for a very comfortable fit. Socks are optional. The only caution is on slippery surfaces, where sandals have never provided much support. The exception to this rule is the Skyline, which has a much deeper tread.

Most of the shoes are modeled for casual wear but a few designs offer a more formal look. Some new designs also feature hand-crafted hemp uppers, which are also very cool. Even so, the best way to be introduced to Sanuk is with a sandal, especially those that cushion your feet with the softness of a yoga mat.

Yoga Mat Sandals By Sanuk Score 8.1 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale. 

Yoga mat sandals might sound overtly California given they were inspired by beaches. But I wouldn't count them out as a wearable sandal anywhere. They are especially apt for all those outdoor occasions on the fringe extreme — beaches, lakes, easy trails, skate parks, rock concerts, and the like.

There are several places you can find Sanuk sandals, including the company direct or from Becker Surf, which is the world's largest online surf store. In addition to Sanuk, Becker Surf carries several other brands of footwear to compare. Side by side, it makes the Sunak story even more compelling.

Make A Statement With Italian Wool

While many leather jackets have long been regarded as part of the counterculture crowd, wool has been making a comeback. Much of it has to do with its rugged roots. Wool coats always feel well worn and weathered while leather, unless you own a bike, doesn't always convey its toughness.

Andrew Marc has put out a couple of standout designs this winter that do. One of them features Italian wool with a shadow plaid button-down front. Shadow plaid is a style that understates the pattern, making the coat look even more worn.

Along with the pattern, the Parker, as it's called, features a knit collar, removable bib, and leather trim detailing. The lapel is held together with a single row of buttons (and an interior zipper).

There are four outer pockets, but only two are really functional. All together, it creates a working class rugged look.

Andrew Marc adds rural ruggedness to urban design. 

By no means is the coat a country stand in or a replacement for the back country. This design is much more urban functional, with the right amount of wool to keep someone warm between their transportation and destination, without having to take everything off.

Along with the Parker, there are other styles as well. And while it doesn't have the same all-around charm, the mixed medium camel hair silk/wool blend with cleaner lines provides for another top coat alternative. It too features a knit bob and leather pocket detail.

Some other details include a notched standing collar, interior zipper for added warmth, and three interior pockets to keep your personal belongings. The best aspect of either coat is much simpler. They are incredibly warm and highly water resistant. And the wool is Italian, so you can anticipate better weight, firmness, and construction.

Andrew Marc has several wool coats for women too. While the designs feel more sixties retro as opposed to rugged and timeless, the toggle front coat makes a different kind of statement. Made with a virgin wool-polyamide blend and lined with polyester and fur, the coat is a much softer counterpart.

Some of the features include a stand collar with two closures, concealed front zipper behind the toggle buttons, and two front slit pockets. The cut has a slightly sixties feel to it, but learning toward a larger size will provide a more rugged style than the photo suggests. Another detail to keep in mind is that the fur is real, not fabricated.

A few graphs about the brand Andrew Marc.

Andrew Marc has always had an urban appeal. You won't see many of its designs in the country. Even so, you have to give the brand credit for keeping the look the rugged and artisan feel authentic. It's not easy to do, but they've done it for 30 years.

The name, of course, comes from company founder Andrew Marc Schwartz. He founded the company with his wife Suzanne in 1981 as a leather goods label before being acquired by the G-III Apparel Group, Ltd. Its first fashion release was a fur-lined lambskin bomber jacket that became the cornerstone of its success.

Along with its founders, Chris Gbur has kept the intent of the brand largely intact. He has served as an in-house creative director for over 25 years. He is responsible for the brand, image and ads.

Wool Coats By Andrew Marc Warm Up 6.2 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale.

Andrew Marc may have started as a leather goods company, but its wool line has continued to develop nicely over the years. The only downside to this year's lineup, in my opinion, is the women's options are nearly as strong as the men's. The Toggle coat is an obvious exception. It looks even better with a bulkier fit.

You can find a full line of wool coats from Andrew Marc at Bloomingdales, which recently discounted them. The retailer also carries a full line of the designer's leather and down outerwear jackets too. Conversely, while styles vary, Andrew Marc coats sometimes appear on Amazon and the brand supports its own online storefront.

ZIIIRO Gravity Times An Evolution

When Robert Dabi first came up with the idea to create a watch without hands or markings, he didn't know much about watches. All he knew was that he wanted to create a watch that would show the passage of time without anything more than minimalistic patterns.

It all began simply enough. He submitted a concept design drawing to Yanko Design. He called it Zero because it has no buttons or numbers. It was a beautiful concept, originally designed with a palate of seven colors.

Several tech and gadget magazines helped take the watch concept to the next level. Dabi found the support his needed. About one year later, several models and colors were ready to sell with a new name that was more reflective of the the spiraling minute and hour hands.

Gravity has come along way and now it has cousins.

As Dabi became more comfortable moving from his graphic design background into product development, Gravity began to take shape. The simplicity attracts everyone, with the continuous and barely noticeable movement showing the passages of time.

It takes some getting use to, just like the bracelet strap that hugs your wrist. Made of metal and silicone, it's comfortable enough. The trick is learning to appreciate that a watch doesn't need to be tied down or strapped on too tightly.

One nice innovation from the early design is the ability to change the close body with one of nine different colors. Likewise, the second generation watch, called Mercury, adds another element.

The face adds small hour markers around a stainless steel case. And rather than relying on the flexible cuff design, these watches strap on with a snap-up enclosure. The tapered mesh strap gives the watch a less sporty and more sophisticated look overall.

ZIIIRO is working hard to evolve design. 

After Mercury, ZIIIRO began moving in an entirely new direction. The Aurora uses two transparent gradient discs to tell time. The blue represents the hour and the yellow represents the minute. It takes significantly more time to get use to, but the design makes it worthwhile.

If the colors seem like too much trouble, then the Orbit moves back to the designer's minimalist roots. The watch display features two planets that exist on a single orbit, occasionally overlapping each other several times a day.

Like most watches made by ZIIIRO, both of these rely on a Japanese Miyota 1L-26 Quartz Movement with an accuracy of +20 seconds a month. They are also made with stainless steel and the face is protected by hardened mineral crystal. They are water resistant (3 ATM or up to 50 feet) but not designed to be submerged for any length of time or frequency.

The newest designs are worth looking at too. In fact, it is the ZIIIRO Eclipse that is my hands-down favorite. Rather than relying on planets to track the time, two poles slowly circle around the face of the watch. They are covered with a patented Swiss Super-LumiNova pigment, allowing them to glow in the dark.

I'm equally fond of the Saturn that uses an out ring of 12 segments and an inner ring of 60 seconds to tell time. It too lights up, but what I like best is that it was designed around the more formal look of the Mercury.

The ZIIIRO Gravity Watch Tells 6.4 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale. 

The ZIIIRO Gravity watch isn't necessarily going to be your prized timepiece like Invicta or Rolex. But it does make a statement for anyone with an appreciation for novel design and a sporty or sophisticated futuristic look.

While you can visit the ZIIIRO website for details, you can find most watches on Amazon, including the Mercury, Saturn, and Gravity. ZIIIRO also recently released an iPhone app that borrows elements of the original design. It's significantly busier (including a calendar and second sweep) than the original watch, but might make for a free fun conversation piece.

Paula Bianco Brings Bold To Necklines

Last year, some of the best scarves making a debut were as much about art as they were wrapping a neckline. And one of most interesting lines turned fantastical images into decorative fashion. 

This year, the opposite holds true. Instead of relying on artistic designs to make a statement, some of the most interesting designs rely on textures instead. Not only do they look as warm as they feel, but the chunky bulk also lends a sophisticated practicality to everything they accentuate. 

The infinity scarf by Paula Bianco is simple and striking. 

While retaining a modern flair with intracate loops and knits, these soft-as-fleece scarves feel immediately timeless, something that can be worn in a decade as easily as they are worn today. The reason this is largely true is in the approach of Paula Bianco, a brand created by Smadar-Pola Azriel. 

She has always had a talent for grounding her work in tradition while upgrading the techniques needed to get it done. In this case, the entire infinity line of scarves is made with 80 percent acrylic and 20 percent nylon (some are 100 percent acrylic). Just don't let their size fool you. They are as light as they are soft. Some almost feel like down feathers.

Another interesting aspect of these scarves is their resilience and adaptability. Knowing that not everyone will appreciate a circle scarf, some design outlets suggest cutting the scarf at the bottom to transform it into a regular scarf. I don't necessarily see that as a solution, but it works well enough. So does adding flair like the original scarves did.

Many of the designs by Azriel's Paula Bianco have a distressed look, with frayed edges and shredded stripes in order to make them look well worn and comfortable. The knit patterns and finished textures ensure it. Just remember that all of these scarves are hand wash only.

A few graphs about designer Smadar-Pola Azriel. 

Smadar-Pola Azriel never intended to enter the world of fashion. She was a high school artist who planned to apply her talent to interior design. She even studied it in college, earning a degree ten years ago.

Nowadays, everything has changed. She is more likely to say that fashion was always bubbling up inside her, possibly released after her first visit to New York City. And so, while designing homes, she started a side project — reconstructing old sweaters into unique scarves.

Once they were deconstructed, she would often add elements to make each one unique. Some of them sported retro button, ribbons, beans, and even pieces of pottery. Sometimes the look was sophisticated. Sometimes it lent a bit a whimsy. But what each of them had in common was that they were one of a kind, something you keep forever.

Her designs were so immediately well received that she made an incredibly brave decision. She gave up on her established career and took classes in basic sewing and dressmaking pattern classes at Shenkar. The transition has been remarkable, with Azriel expanding her fashion line from scarves and jewelry to full ensembles.

Across it all, Azriel has become a name associated with contemplation. Her work is playfully modern, but grounded in tradition. It looks both fresh and instantly classic.

Infinity Scarves From Paula Bianco Wrap 7.8 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale. 

What makes the scarves by Paula Bianco stand out is there is size. Although the scarves themselves are soft and light, their chunkiness adds a visual appeal that accentuates as much as it accessorizes.

With the Paula Bianco site being redesigned, the best place to find the new infinity line is Designs By Stephanie. All of the scarves by Paula Bianco are on sale for the season. They also have a large collection of scarves from other designers too, including Theodora & Callum, Lilly Pulitzer, and their own signature designs.

House Of Holland Goes Rave Nana Bold

While many designers have been moving toward muted, understated and sometimes masculine designs, Henry Holland has become firmly entrenched in his own irreverent vision. Everything in his newest assortment is big, bold and brash in a playful, sometimes subversive sort of way.

What is especially unique about his newest designs is that some of the wool material feels like a fall excursion. The colors not so much, which is widely spry and international. Almost everything he has released in the past few months was made to draw summertime attention to the person wearing it — like a beacon amidst a wave of gray.

The Rave Nana orange cardigan is one of a dozen different looks that prove the point. The orange and plum colors are bold, the buttons are prominent, and the fit is comfortable.

The only thing about it that might disappoint some buyers is the sizing. This design is only made for size 6 and 8 (which is U.S. sizes 2 and 4). And if you can pull it off, it might be best paired with something else other than Holland's cigarette pattern, which deserves a graph or two of its own.

House Of Holland lights up Rave Nana pop icons. 

While some of the world has shunned smoking and drinking, House Of Holland has fun with it in ways that few people have ever thought up. Two of the designs, in particular, undermine anyone thinking nanny-ness.

One is the Rave Nana embellished cigarette dress that turns a fitted pencil dress with round neckline into something of a startling pattern with gemstones and sparkles serving up smoking cigarettes. With swanlike clouds, the butts smoke on a field of blue. The design is brilliant, an embellishment of a another pattern that Holland has immortalized as a shirt and tee dress.

The second design is equally dauntless, featuring rows of cocktail glasses. The tailored cocktail print is fully lined, accented with shoulder pads and accompanied by a single vent.

And then there is the more frantic and fanciful design, a brooch top that fits in a dramatically different way than the cocktail coat. With a high neck, long sleeves and cropped finish, it's fun even if it needs a fall coat. Conversely, the brooch silk shirt has a long, curved hemline.


Both designs represent some of the louder looks that make up the Rave Nana collection. There are several more designs that are understated by comparison and retro in their allure.

Some of the standouts include dark green sweatshirts, rave wave jumpers, and stunning leather collar wool shirts with gemstones framing the neck. Along with these modernized flashbacks,  Holland also put out an entire series of wave and cocktail glass tights that push the free-spirited sixties forward.

A couple graphs about Henry Holland and his House Of Holland.

Born in Ramsbottom (Greater Manchester, England), Henry Holland went on to study in London College of Printing. As a stylist who grew tried of seeing fashion move in the same direction, he started to make a label that was bold, colorful and irreverent. It first appeared en force in 2008.

His designs all consider a London girl aesthetic, which is largely different than anything seen in the States or anywhere else in the world. Part of that difference is understanding that women in their teens and twenties have places to go, which defines almost all of his Rave Nana looks. These are the kind of clothes you wear out — to a club, concert or someplace fun.

Rave Nana By House Of Holland Screams Up 7.1 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale. 

While some of it might be too bold for anything women are wearing in the States, the secret to making the look work might hinge on matching them up with something slightly understated. They are fun and carefree, creating an informed sixties or seventies look for modern times.

You can take a deeper look at the Rave Nana collection and some other new arrivals direct from House Of Holland. Do be mindful that House Of Holland is based in the United Kingdom (adjust for price and sizing). Most orders will be processed by the Royal Mail or DHL shipping, which may include additional duty charges payable by the receiver.

A Charm Bracelet For Every Season

There are dozens of different charm bracelets, but one of the most interesting and elusive comes from the Danish company Pandora. The charms themselves aren't attached by clasps. Each one is designed around a hole that slides onto the bracelet instead.

Not only are the bracelets attractive, but they are also designed to keep the charms secure. Unless the reinforced box clasp on the bracelet breaks, it's almost impossible to lose them. And, perhaps more importantly, the box clasps are works of art.

Almost all of them are made with sterling silver or gold, which will likely complement the charms that will eventually decorate them. They are also designed to complement a variety of bracelet styles, ranging from silver and gold to coiled leather and woven fabric.

Most bracelets are simple, with a single loop around the wrist. A few are more dramatic, coiling around the wrist twice or thrice. The additional wraps are especially nice for anyone who wants to build a bigger collection of charms. There might be cause for that; there are dozens of different sets.

The charms that make every Pandora bracelet unique. 

Every bracelet and charm starts with a discriminating selection process. The company only selects the best shapes and brightest, clearest stones. They are shaped and polished, set aside while each silver or gold ingot is shaped by hand to create a unique work of art.

The precision required to carve even one specialty piece requires hours of care. It requires a delicate hand to set and slowly carve out the ornate designs that now exceed more than 600 individual pieces.

Some are similar to clasp charms in that each one tells part of a story. A telephone booth from London, for example, could be part of a travel collection. A frog prince might represent someone's favorite story. Or it could mean something else. The entire collection includes designs that represent a variety of seasons, events, and interests.

While interesting and exquisite, these tiny little storytellers weren't the charms that initially attracted me to write something about these bracelets. The ones that I found to be the most striking are paves, round ornaments that can be mixed and matched for subtle or vibrant effects.

The details of each pave, whether decorated with semi-precious and precious gemstones or reliant on detailed carvings, make each charm unique. As such, each arrangement becomes unique. Unlike most charm bracelets, Pandora charms don't have to feel permanent — it's easy enough to slide different charms on or off depending upon the season or occasion.

A few more graphs about the history of Pandora. 

Pandora was originally founded in Copenhagen, Denmark, as a jeweler's shop by Danish goldsmith Per Enevoldsen and his wife Winnie. In addition to selling his own work, the couple would frequently travel to Thailand in search of jewelry that they could import.

They were successful enough to transform their shop into a wholesale company for other jewelers in Denmark. The wholesale business provided a strong foundation for the company, but Enevoldsen was anxious to start creating his own jewelry again. They hired their first in-house designer in 1987.

It would be another decade before the Danish company would gain international attention for its uniquely designed charm bracelet concept. By 2004, Pandora opened in the United States, Germany, and Australia.

The Pandora Charm Bracelet Shines At 9.1 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale.

While it creates other jewelry, its charm bracelets remain the cornerstone of Pandora's work. The attention to detail is striking, right down to the chamber that slides onto the bracelets. One word of caution in regard to the jewelry: never use any cleaners that may remove the oxidation details designed as part of the charms.

You can find a large selection of Pandora charms and bracelets at REEDS Jewelers. The jeweler provides dozens of ideas and inspiration specific to Pandora. If you would prefer to browse, start with the bracelets and then visit an exclusive set of new charm arrivals, many of them discounted.

Artisan Knit From Peruvian Connection

The first time you feel almost any art knit by Peruvian Connection, you'll appreciate it isn't made like most sweaters, jackets, or kimonos. For one thing, many of them are made with alpaca fleece, which is lighter and warmer than sheep's wool.

The alpaca, which is closely related to the llama, is relatively common in Peru. And while they are sometimes used as food or beasts of burden, they are mostly raised for their soft, lightweight fleece. Nothing is really comparable, not even when the fibers are blended with Pima cotton, which has its own story of superiority.

The quality if fine enough that it doesn't loose anything during the manufacturing. In fact, the Peruvian Connection won't take any chances. Most of the clothing is knitted by hand. The women who do it follow in the tradition of their ancestors. The work they create is nothing less than wearable art.

Three amazing styles to head off cooler temperatures.

One of the most immediately striking designs in this year's collection is the Kilim Pima Cotton & Alpaca Kimono (above). The kimono itself is a Kaffe Fassett-designed art knit that has been generously sized. It features drop shoulders, buttonless placket, and stripped border.

Fassett, for those unfamiliar, is known the world over for his colorful work in fabric, knitting, needlepoint, patchwork, painting, and mosaics. Since 1937, his work has become so captivating that it's more likely to be seen in a gallery than in a clothing store. Few have his sense of intuition and history.

In this case, his beautiful design made its way to Peru, where it was handmade using 60 percent Pima cotton and 40 percent alpaca. The inspiration for the concentric design is from a Turkish kilim, recast in hand-tweeded, space-dyed hues.

For a more bohemian look, another masterful Fassett creation is the Western Isle Alpaca & Pima Cotton Ruana. A ruana is a garment that is more typical of the Andes. Using this as his inspiration, Fassett was able to hand-frame the traditional style in dozens of tweeded shades, ranging from sky blue and sage to sand and plum.

As a slightly warmer and more durable garment inspired by those worn by the Muisca people of Colombia, the ruana is made with 72 percent alpaca and 29 percent Pima cotton. There is only one size.

A third highlight from the artisan knits featured in the upcoming collection is the Cotton Ukuku Vest. Although not designed by Fassett, some remarkable design elements are apparent. These are inspired by Andean weaving designs. The vest includes drop shoulders, buttonless placket, and ribbed trim.

Some insight into the mother-daughter teams of Peruvian Connection. 

The mother-daughter team of Biddy and Annie Hurlbut can trace its roots to the 1970s when Annie Hurlbut was spending her sophomore summer at an archeological dig in Peru as a Yale student. It was there that she encountered the alpaca.

She never forgot the experience, eventually deciding to return to Peru and write her thesis about women who sell in primitive markets. She was so inspired by the craftsmanship, she began to add designs to their otherwise warm and practical clothing. The results were breathtaking.

When she returned to her family's farm in Kansas, she produced a catalog with her mother and then took some samples to New York City. Bendel's was among the first to purchase them, but not the last.

Art Knits By The Peruvian Connection Weaves 9.5 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale.

The Peruvian Connection apparel is always worthy of being admired. But then then you add the unique, one-of-a-kind design talents of the masterful Fassett, the colllection's art knits truly become works of art. You can learn more about Fasset in Dreaming in Color: An Autobiography.

The best place to appreciate the entire apparel line of the Peruvian Connection is direct. If you can't find what you are looking for at Peruvian Connection UK, the company has another site stateside. Occasionally, you can find random items on sale, such as this Burgundy Florecita Pillow, on Amazon.

Ray-Ban Returns To The Clubmaster

If there ever was a competitor to the classic Ray-Ban Wayfarer, it easily belongs to the Ray-Ban Clubmaster. While the popular browline style was never meant to have a second life (let alone a third), the sunglasses with the bold upper frame have found another resurgence.

Ray-Ban has recently remastered the Clubmaster in all aluminum, making them lighter and cooler than their plastic predecessors. They also come in four frame options: black, gunmetal, silver, and bronze. All four are also trimmed in a complementing gold or silver.

The Clubmaster has an interesting place in history.

The Clubmaster itself wasn't around when browline glasses first became popular in the 1950s and 1960s. They weren't designed until the 1980s when the browline style stumbled into its second life after detective David Addison Jr. (Bruce Willis) wore a pair on the hit television series Moonlighting.

Addison never wore them per se. He sported Shuron Ronsirs, which were the original browline sunglasses designed in 1947 by Jack Rohrbach. It wasn't until the series spurred demand in 1980s that Ray-Ban introduced its take on the browline design. The Clubmaster quickly became the third most popular brand of sunglasses in the United States.

The newest resurgence for the Clubmaster is being fueled by an appeal for throwback fashions from the 1950s and 1960s. The trend began in the mid 2000s but continues to hold firm. Some people attribute it to various television series like Mad Men, but others have different ideas as to why the browline is back. Great design doesn't have a shelf life.

The Clubmaster has been subjected to extreme stigmas across seven decades. 

Much like the 1460 Originals by Dr. Martens, the Clubmaster and greater browline style have been subjected to whatever stigma different eras invent for them. In the 1950s and 1960s, they became iconic among courageous and successful individuals, everyone from James Dean to Malcolm X, but they were cast as commonplace and conservative in the 1970s.

The same thing happened again in the 1980s. After they returned to popularity, the browline fell out of style in the 1990s as they became associated with geeks, nerds, conservatives (again), and angry white men. The newest resurgence of browline glasses had grown out from the fringes.

There are several modern influences at work too. The all-aluminum design is part of a bigger movement toward raw materials. Synthetics have taken a back seat to metal, wood and leather. Incidentally, the opposite was true when Rohrbach first came up with a design for Shuron.

The original glasses featured a plastic browline fastened to a metal chassis. It made them lighter while making a move toward plastic (influenced by metal shortages during World War II). Nowadays, stronger aluminum is often lighter than plastic.

The science behind the glasses made by Ray-Ban. 

The new aluminum Clubmaster by Ray-Ban isn't all about design. Some of it is about science.

Almost all of the aluminum frames have been matched with polarized lenses, which Ray-Ban developed to reduce glare, enhance contrasts and improve clarity. The lenses absorb 85 percent of visible light and 99 percent of reflected light. Reflected light is the most common kind of light to cause eye strain.

They do protect your eyes from harmful rays. The lenses were made to 100 percent of UVA, UVB, and harmful blue light up to 400 nanometers. Along with protection from the sun, the lenses are impact resistance. According to Ray-Ban, they resist as much as twice the impact of a common lens.

The Ray-Ban Clubmaster Revives 8.1 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale.

The matte-finish aluminum frames are a striking next chapter in browline glasses and Clubmaster history. While I own several brands of sunglasses that I trade out depending on what I'm doing, the Clubmaster has become a favorite for more casual outings.

You can order the new Ray-Ban Clubmaster Aluminum direct from Ray-Ban. The aluminum frames cost a little more, but the durability makes up for it. If you have a tighter budget, then look for the plastic models or hold off for a sale. As an another alternative, you can always look up the Shuron Ronsirs too. I like the Ray-Ban take a little better, but it's hard to argue with an original.

Free People Finds An Edge For Fall

There are plenty of fans of the bohemian style sported by Free People. This fall, however, proves to be a bit different for the designer. There is a noticeable edge to many of the vintage and classic designs.

The lines are tighter; the colors are bolder. Even something as simple as a tank takes on another dimension with a contoured waist with a flare at the hemline. While this transitional piece will require a jacket as the weather cools down, there is still plenty of time to pull it off as a late summer sensation.

It works for two reasons. The overall lines are bold and daring, but the the cut and crocheted detailing add an unmistakable feminine touch. Add in some stud detailing and it becomes easy to see why the day-tripped Toosloosa tank is still a favorite. It's the piece that inspired this review.

Free People finds a little more edge to its vintage look. 

The look definitely brings in a harder edge that was found in the late 60s and early 70s when movements felt more militant. And yet, what makes this design collection memorable isn't only the edge but how the design team managed to make it feminine.

The military ruffle jacket is a classic example. From the front, there appears to be some much-loved wear to the cotton (and spandex for strength) jacket. It comes across as masculine, with a notched label and ragged sleeves.

But from the back, the ruffled detailing adds a decidedly different twist. And so do the tie cuffs on the back of each sleeve. It's the combination that makes the style tough but with a hint of temptation too.

It's also how most of the collection came together. Even the most bohemian designs, like the dotted mesh Fiona Victorian top carry a toughness worth consideration. The color suggests an autumn romance, inviting and stylish. But how this piece will really pay off depends more on its match.

With a distressed denim jacket, jeans or skirt, the top becomes a contrasting and comfortable part of any concert ensemble. Again, the lace might make it feminine but the lines are bold, especially across the button back closure.

Of course, not every number is contoured in the collection. Free People maintains its usual range of cuts and styles with every idea casting the collection in a new direction. For something that hugs a little less but still demands attention, Free People has always put out great pullovers.

The only difference between the newest offerings and pullovers from a few seasons ago, much like most of the collection, is the effort to bring everything in to allow for layering. The French Terry boho bum, with its high/low hem and embroidered detailing, is every bit as eye catching but without tailoring.

Free People adds more edge to always interesting and relaxed designs. 

Free People has always been one of my favorite design boutique success stories. It started with a young man named Dick Hayne who planted a seed in West Philadelphia that focused exclusively on younger people who wanted more freedom in their clothes. You know the store. It was called Urban Outfitters.

From there, Hayne and his wife wanted to push their design sensibilities in different directions. They went on to launch more brand stores like Bulldog, Ecote, Cooperative, and Anthropologie. After all of those brands were established, they relaunched Free People as a separate store in 1984.

The Fall Collection From Free People Slips On 8.1 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale. 

With almost three decades behind the initial brand, Free People remains fresh as it evolves with the times. Initially loved for its cutting-edge bohemian look, the latest collection has added a new edge.

Free People has has more than 50 designs for its new transitional collection. You can view most of the collection at Bloomingdales. The department store recently added a look book that highlights many of the new styles that are waiting to be layered for fall.

There Really Is Something To Untuckit

"The best ideas are ones that solve problems for yourself." — Chris Riccobono, Untuckit

Sometimes that is true. And it is true for Chris Riccobono. He wanted a button-down shirt that looked good untucked so he went to work trying to solve the problem some men have, finding the right shirt.

Most of the time, button-down shirts are either too long or too tight to leave untucked. They need to be tucked. Then once they're tucked, there are always new problems. You have to find a belt, which isn't too hard with khakis as much as jeans. But let's face it. Who wants to wear conventional pants anyway?

As jeans have become more acceptable in more settings, wearing button-down shirts untucked made more sense. While the proverbial jeans and a T-shirt doesn't always cut it, a button-down adds just enough dress to make everything work.

There are several dozens looks here. All of them are untucked. 

The variety of styles are all borrowed from what you might expect to find anywhere. Untuckit makes oxfords, ginghams and plaids and even the occasional henley. The difference is mostly in the hemline, with the shirts tailored to be 2 to 4 inches shorter than most shirts.

While you can wear them slightly longer or shorter, the idea is to land between the belt line and the pants pockets, dressing up the look but negating the need for a belt. The shirts also run more narrow toward the bottom, ensuring they won't billow or flare out. Here are three for comparison.

Medoc (top). The shirt itself is a periwinkle plain with light blue and pink overlay. It works because the pattern is a clean, classic look. The fabric for this shirt comes from Japan. It's 100 percent cotton.

It was also one of the first shirts designed for the launch of Untuckit a couple of years ago. Riccobono has said several times that it's one of his favorites. It's also one of the shirts that NHL star and Untuckit partner Brad Richards wears too.

But not all of the Untuckit shirts have a prep look about them. The darker colors look more rustic.

Fleur Cardinale. The navy, white, and gray flannel with red check overlay is a flannel. The fabric is thicker than the lighter fare, lending itself better to the more rugged regions of America. Like the periwinkle, the fabric also comes from Japan. (Not every shirt fabric does.)

Rioja II. Another look from Untuckit includes a plain variation. The concept was to give a casual edge to the classic look. I chose the blue as an example because they seem to have more depth than the whites. However, I didn't order this particular shirt because the time for button-down collars has passed.

A few things to think about when you check out the shop. 

Like many online retailers, there is always a bit of a mix in what you will find. In this case, Untuckit does a great job laying out the sizes to help people find the best fit. The sizing page is one of the best features on the site in that it's very clear what size you need to have the seams land where you want.

The grid basically lines up weight to height. While this might not solve the occasional issues all men might have, Untuckit does go a long way in guiding them to do what's right. You can preserve a fit with dry cleaning or wash it to make it shrink slightly or wash it and tumble dry to shrink it more.

What I don't like about the site is pretty common among retailers. It happens all the time. You flip through a few product pages and finally find the shirt you like, only to discover your size is long gone. One of these days, retailers will make sizing more visible, negating the need for treasure hunt sizing.

Untuckit Changes Up The Basic Button Down For 5.8 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale. 

The Untuckit shirts have been out for a few years and it's great to see the company is continuing to catch some attention on an idea that is almost too good. By that, I mean that the concept is so simple that there isn't really much more to be said. Maybe it's time for them to think more about design too.

The best place to look for the newest Untuckit arrivals is direct. Some of the newer additions include an experiment with wrinkle-free button-down shirts, polos, tees, and other style. The company also supports The Pete Frates Fund, which we think is pretty cool too.

A Triple Take On Fall Fashion Theory

"If you're making good clothes and you have a good concept, there's always business to do." — Andrew Rosen 

While the Theory brand has waxed and waned over the years, it has tried to keep Rosen's vision intact by blending European craftsmanship with American merchandising models, minus advertising. The model has worked most of the time, spurring international retail growth.

In essence, the brand was successful. Even so, something always felt missing from the brand once it was acquired by an international retailer. That is, something was missing until the brand tapped Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens. And this year, the relationship that revived the brand is in full force.

Theory looks for a crisp, clean and sophisticated fall.

At a glance, everything looks much like you would expect at Theory this year until you take a closer look at the lines. Those straight edges look modern until you tumble down the new arrivals and pick up a sense of familiarity. Some of the cuts are unapologetically inspired by segments of the Sixties.

Even cooler, the Sixties flair isn't all feminine. It's relativity masculine with a few punk inspirations woven into sophistication. And if it wasn't for the polish and great attention to detail, you could expect to find some of these fashions tucked alway on alternative aisles.

The Trina Turk dress is an example that marks Theory's direction. The fitted dress can be worn at work with a blazer or with a leather jacket as a happy hour ensemble. Highlights include a crew neck, sleeveless top, and concealed zipper.

Like most Theory dresses, it is lined. This one is made with a rayon, nylon, spandex mix. Then compare it to the new Nikay, which is made with a cotton blend (33 percent cotton, 27 percent acrylic, 10 percent nylon, 3 percent elastane). It too is a sleeveless styled dress with a round neck and invisible zipper. Some aspects are the same, only simplified and improved upon.

Likewise, Theory is making some bold moves on pants too. While most Theory pants are known for their tailored cuts with features like off-seam front pockets to create a fitted slacks look, some of the new styles feature tighter elastic waist panels and shorter legs with cuffs. There is clearly a throwback consideration to be seen.

A couple graphs about designer Oliver Theyskens. 

While no on can deny that Rosen still makes an impression at Theory, it's often Theyskens who is driving some of the new lines with his relentless desire to make quality fashion at the proper price. It's an admirable goal, especially as Theory embraces a look that stands out more than ever.

Theyskens himself always wanted to work in fashion. He studied at Ecole de la Cambre in Brussels and started his own eponymous brand in 1997 (just as Rosen was getting getting Theory off the ground). His sharp design and cutting-edge vision made him immediately revered by his colleagues and peers.

Within five years, he was appointed artistic director of Rochas, where he completely redefined the style of the Parisian house. His next move led him to Nina Ricci and he was eventually approached by Rosen to create Theyskens' Theory before he eventually accepted a residency as an artistic director.

The Upcoming Fall Line By Theory Cuts 8.9 On The Liquid Hip Richter Scale. 

While I'm a big fan of both hard clothing and Bohemian looks, the upcoming line for Theory is something worthwhile. It is completely distinct at the right time as a few European designers have been trending in this direction. The look is smart, but refreshingly not overly formal.

You can find Theory on sale at Bloomingdales, where the newest fashions will eventually be featured on the front page. You can also make purchases from Theory direct. Although the brand is best known for women, Bloomingdales also stocks the men's line. Like the new line for women, there seems to be a lot less prep and more punk in the newer fashions being added.